Our chat with Paul Welburn and his head chef, Luke, at their new restaurant, Fern in Nanstallon.
We visited Paul and Luke at their new restaurant, Fern, to talk about Paul’s journey from Yorkshire to Michelin stars to making Cornwall his culinary home, the philosophy behind Fern’s evolving menu, and their insider tips for experiencing the best of Cornwall.
A new chapter in Cornwall
Yorkshire-born Paul brings decades of culinary excellence to Cornwall, having trained under legendary mentors including Gary Rhodes and Richard Corrigan before leading prestigious kitchens across the UK. From London’s The Gherkin and Rhodes W1 to The Oxford Kitchen where he earned his Michelin star, and most recently The Swan Inn in Oxfordshire, Paul’s journey has led him home to Cornwall, where his partner has lived for sixteen years. Paul creates dishes that celebrate the very best of the South West while maintaining his signature perfectionist approach. His recently published cookbook, Evolve, captures his culinary philosophy perfectly.
The Fern experience
Fern’s menu is a masterclass in seasonal British cooking with unexpected twists. The concept is refreshingly relaxed – dishes arrive as they’re ready, designed to be savoured at your own pace creating an experience that unfolds naturally throughout the evening. Every dish begins with what’s in season and close to home, celebrating the best of the South West from local produce, fresh seafood, and ingredients from trusted Cornish suppliers. The bar reflects this same commitment to provenance, featuring Cornish spirits, craft beers, and carefully selected wines from independent producers, including, naturally, bottles from neighbouring Camel Valley Vineyard.
Standout dishes included:
Crispy pigs with burnt apple and leek emulsion – showcasing Paul’s talent for elevating humble ingredients. Kern custard creams with blueberry ketchup – playful nostalgia with a grown-up twist. Cured chalk stream trout with dill, yoghurt, and pickled lemon – clean, bright flavours that let exceptional produce shine. Smoked octopus with ponzu dressing, furikake, and kohlrabi – bringing international influence to Cornish seafood. Venison loin with celeriac, pickled blackberry and landcress – perfectly cooked game paired with earthy sweetness and sharp acidity, showing Paul mastery of seasonal British ingredients. 24-hour lamb neck with yoghurt flatbread, black garlic, and sriracha – demonstrating the patience and precision that earned him Michelin recognition. The desserts continue this theme of nostalgic British flavours reimagined: Baron Bigod cheese with Fern’s own fruit cake and hot honey, Spiced pumpkin cake with miso butterscotch, and their signature Frozen toddy with toasted lemon, honey, and whisky.
We had a truly wonderful experience at Fern and would wholeheartedly recommend a visit. Book here.
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